• We would like to start off by saying that we do not recommend homeowners that are not properly trained in the dangers of tree service and tree removal attempt anything we are about to discuss. These are tree removal techniques developed over the years by professional arborists with a great deal of training and experience. We will be just touching the surface off some of the things a tree service company near you may use for tree removal.

    Notch Cuts and when to use them

    Some traditional arborists believe that there are only 3 basic notch cuts used in tree removal. We will talk about those and some of the hybrid notches that are variants of those three. This article will include when we feel its best to use these notches, which ones are safer than others, and the degree of difficulty in making these cuts. This is not meant to be an exhaustive study that will make you a professional arborist overnight armed with all the tools and techniques needed for tree removal. This will just scratch the surface of a profession that takes years of experience and continuous training to safely work in what has become one of the most dangerous jobs in the world.

    Conventional Notch

    The first, most common, and easiest to identify is the Conventional Notch. The Conventional Notch is the most widely used notch in the tree removal business. The total angle of this notch is 45 degrees. This notch has primary or top cut of 45 degrees going downward. The bottom cut is a flat horizontal cut.  A general rule is that this cut should not exceed ¼ of the tree diameter. These cuts should meet, and the chuck should just about fall out. Sometimes a strike with a ax or sledge is needed to dislodge it. Once dislodged to complete the task a back cut with be made horizontally at least one inch above the bottom cut. The only downfall to this notch is it isn’t quite as safe as some other notches due to the hinge breaking early towards the middle of the fall.  This is the most familiar cut known by most arborists and loggers alike as the this is an extremely easy notch to execute.

    Open Faced Notch

      Family common as well is the Open Faced Notch. This is a 70/20 notch which calls for you to make a sideways v cut in the side of the tree.  The primary or top cut needs to be cut at an angle close to 70 degrees going downward. The bottom cut should be angled upward 20 degrees. The depth of this cut should not exceed ¼ of the total tree diameter. The back cut should be made horizontal at the same height as the corner of the notch. This is a very safe and controlled notch as the point of the notch closure isn’t until just before the tree hits the ground. The only really disadvantage some say to this notch is the hinge is so strong sometimes it stays partially intact and needs to be cut off. This is common to use when trying to really control exactly where tree will fall. If your skilled with your felling sight although this is alittle more difficult a notch you can drop the tree almost exactly where you aim to drop it.

    The Humbolt Notch

     The Humbolt Notch is very common among loggers and tree removal companies on the west coast. Any old experienced arborist will tell you this is the cut they primarily used. It the 70s saws weighed 20 lbs or more without fuel. With fuel added that’s a lot of weight to be throwing around. The Humbolt starts with a top cut that is flat and horizontal. The bottom cut if to be done right at the stump angled upward 45 degrees. The back cut is done horizontal and is one inch above the top cut. Two reasons why this was popular was it saves slightly more wood, and it’s a low cut started from the stump. With the weight of most chainsaw back then a break from lifting a saw high in the air was welcomed. This is the safest notch but falls right in the middle. Its slightly more difficult than a Conventional Notch but similar to it, the notch breaks early in the middle of the fall.

    Hybrid notches sometimes used

    There many variations of different notches not widely recognized or taught but mastered by a few arborists depending on location. We wont spend a lot of to time explain by will just list them for you to research later. Trees and wood act different in different parts of the United States. We don’t recommend trying to do tree work yourself. Call a tree service company near you and have them send a trained arborist to assess your tree removal project.

    Key Notch/Tongue and Groove 

    This notch is also known by some as the Tongue and Groove Notch. This notch might be used during Storm Cleanup where tree removal of a snagged tree is needed. Some west coast arborists may use this when felling on a hill. Either way a very difficult cut to make

    Swing Dutchman

    This notch is primarily used when trying to pull a tree past its lean and drop it in a better location. Most of these hybrid notches are extremely difficult and should only be attempted by a certified arborist.

    Block Face

    Another very difficult notch mastered by few. This notch was made famous by a photo of the tree felling of a large Redwood on the west coast done by Jerry Beranek and Keith Ankler both climbers from California. The photo was taken by Charly Pottorff, a climber from Kansas. Search on your browser “ AT 150 FT. UP — STILL 7 FT. IN DIAMETER!” and see for yourself.

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